Winnebago

The long and winding RV road across the USA

The long and winding RV road across the USA

The long and winding RV road across the USA
A photo-journal by Ian Vale
 
2020 - TEXAS TO NEW ENGLAND AND BACK

Preamble

After my loop around south-western Texas over late December 2019 and early 2020, I returned to Black Jack Springs where I parked up in my usual spot for a few weeks before leaving the Airstream there while I headed for the Miami Boat Show mid-February followed immediately by a trip back to the UK.

Heading back to Texas mid-March, my original plan for 2020 had been to head out to the West Coast, meander on up to the Pacific Northwest and then back to Connecticut across the higher latitudes of the US, a plan comprehensively derailed by the Coronavirus pandemic, with lockdown rather than liberating travel greeting me on my return to the US.

After spending the best part of 3 months stationary - and in splendid isolation - at Black Jack Springs, and with the "first wave" of the pandemic apparently passing and lockdowns easing, I decided to head over to the UK for a summer visit before returning to Texas and getting my wheels rolling up to Connecticut.

(click to enlarge)

TEXAS TO CONNECTICUT

Friday, July 31, 2020 – Navasota, TX, to Lincoln Parish Park Campground, Ruston, LA

Said farewell to my long-term parking spot at Black Jack Springs at 8:00am, wheels rolling on the Airstream for the first time in almost 6 months.

Pulled over in Nacogdoches, half-way through the day's drive, for a grocery top-up and a late coffee. And not long after that the threat of heavy rain showers materialized, with me thereafter off and on for the rest of the day.

Although I had pumped up my mountain bike tires yesterday the front tyre had gone completely flat by this morning. Pumped it up again during my coffee stop and although it seemed to be holding air this time I decided to research bike shops along my route that might either be able to take a look at it.

Found a bike shop right at my turn-off from I-20 in Ruston and left the bike with them to renew the tire sealant while I headed to Lincoln Parish Park Campground and got set up in a pull-through site – not quite on the lake itself, as on previous stops here, but still with views of the lake from under the trees on the other side of the campground road.

Back into Ruston to retrieve the bike, then a quiet evening (no TV reception, limited Internet connection).


Saturday, August 1, 2020 – Lincoln Parish Park Campground, Ruston, LA

Alarm set for 6:00am to allow me to have an early bowl of cereal and begin hydrating ahead of my planned mountain bike ride along the 10 miles of trails here – something I knew would be challenging as it was warm (75 degrees) and humid, and I hadn’t ridden since the end of May.

And it certainly was every bit the workout I had expected... ending at 9:45am, exhausted and drenched in sweat.

After getting cleaned up, drove up to the campground entrance to check on the possibility of staying another night, which I was fortunately able to do.

Back to the Airstream for coffee and bagel and the start of a prolonged effort at route planning for the week ahead – route easy to plan, campground accommodations along the way a little less so.

Last available campground spots snatched from under my typing fingers on two occasions as I worked my way through the limited availability, but all settled by mid-afternoon, allowing a brief celebratory stroll along the lakeshore.

Another quiet evening...


Sunday, August 2, 2020 – Lincoln Parish Park Campground, Ruston, LA, to Mt Zion, Brookhaven, MS

Rose early again, in order to get hydration under way before a morning run – 3 times round the lake.

Legs a little heavy from yesterday’s ride, and it was warm and humid again even though I was out and running before 7:00am. So no records set for mile times, even with the route around the perimeter of the lake being completely flat!

Rewarded myself with a Starbucks breakfast sandwich – with the Airstream unhooked it was a drive of only a few miles to the store, the long drive-through line skirted by simply parking and walking in to place my order.

Back to the campground for a little admin – mainly writing up this journal – before hitching up the Airstream and heading out for a long drive down I-20 East, pulling over to head to downtown Vicksburg for an ice-cream from a store (and Coca-Cola Museum) that I found last time through here.

Then a diversion south from my direct route back to Connecticut to stop at Brookhaven, MS, and the Mt Zion Bike Trails to the west of town where there are a couple of RV hook-ups at the trailhead that I've used when riding here previously.

Recognized and welcomed back by a couple of the local guys as I pulled in and got set up, A/C fired up as a priority.

Some TV channels coming through so there was a little low-brow entertainment for the evening.


Monday, August 3, 2020 – Mt Zion, Brookhaven, MS, to Oak Mountain State Park, Pelham, AL

Up at 6:00am for a light breakfast and gradual hydration before heading out on the MTB trails.

Another very enjoyable ride at Mt Zion, especially the first 2-3 miles in the relative cool of early morning, the sun filtering through the trees and wheels spinning easily.

A couple of new drops have been added to the trails since my last time here, one of which fully bottomed out the bike’s suspension – ridden a second time just to check, and it sure did!

Progressively tougher as my legs grew weary and the day grew warmer but a fun 10 miles of riding.

Hosed the dust off the bike, showered the sweat off myself, and headed out a little before 10:00am, facing a 300-mile drive to the next overnight stop at Oak Mountain State Park in Alabama, with an early stop made at a rest area on I-65 for coffee and bagel.

A couple more stops during the drive, one for gas and lunch and the second for a mid-afternoon snack, arriving at the campground at Oak Mountain at 4:00pm.

Surprisingly, a number of TV stations coming in so able to catch up on the day’s news.


Tuesday, August 4, 2020 – Oak Mountain State Park, Pelham, AL

Getting lighter much earlier as I head east (soon to cross into the Eastern Time Zone) and waking earlier as a result, this morning at a little after 5:30am.

But this allowed me to get breakfast and start hydrating in good time for the morning’s ride, for which I had to drive to the other end of the park.

Set off on the ride at 7:50am, tackling the more difficult climbing sections earlier in the ride – through pine woods and oak woods, crossing creeks - climbing fairly consistently for the first 5 miles.

I debated calling it a day after a strenuous but fun and flowing 10 miles but decided to press on for a fairly undemanding loop around the lake, finally totting up a grand total of 15 miles in a couple of hours of riding.

Brewed a well-earned coffee back at the Airstream after getting cleaned up, and found myself in need of a short reviving power nap... which seemed to take me through to an early lunch.

With groceries getting low – especially my essential hydrating water supplies – decided to scoot off early afternoon to nearby Pelham for a grocery top-up and to gas up the truck ahead of tomorrow’s long drive to North Carolina.

Also decided to dump tanks and fill the fresh water tank to save time tomorrow morning when an early start will be required.


Wednesday, August 5, 2020 – Pelham, AL, to Davidson River Campground, Brevard, NC

Awake again with the dawning day a little after 5:30am.

Skimmed the news on-line before getting up, showering, breakfasting, hooking up the Airstream and heading out – all of which took me until 7:00am before my wheels were properly rolling.

A long day’s drive, punctuated by a stop for coffee a little after 9:00am CDT/10:00am EDT after I had crossed the state line into Georgia and another stop for lunch once over the state line into South Carolina.

Final miles in the mountains on the SC/NC border over some seriously winding roads, with many corners only taken safely at 15-20mph. A heavy rain shower in the final miles followed me into the campground, delaying setting up in my designated camp site while I waited for the downpour to pass.

Headed off to my Texas host’s home-away-from-home at Mountain Falls Luxury Coach Resort, where his “bus” sits off to one side of a 6,000 sq ft plot with a large outdoor kitchen, bar and seating area beyond.

A rather neat waterfall (from which this picture is taken) is a new addition at the back of the plot.

After a welcoming “Texas Mule” beverage, we headed off in the golf cart to the small Italian restaurant adjacent to the resort for dinner before I wound my way back down the mountain to the campground.


Thursday, August 6, 2020 – Davidson River Campground, Brevard, NC

An early fortifying breakfast (and the usual hydration routine) before brewing a coffee to take with me for my morning’s mid-ride refreshment.

A 20-minute drive got me to Dupont State Forest to ride three 5-mile loops of my favorite trails in this area, which were in good condition despite yesterday’s rain.

Another very enjoyable ride here, and if I had time and energy I might even have tackled a fourth loop. But a tentative early afternoon rendezvous with Les for a drive in the mountains meant I had to drive back to the campground and get cleaned up.

No rendezvous in the event, due to doubtful weather, so I switched to Plan B - grocery shopping, a light lunch followed by ice-cream, and a wander around The Hub bike store where sizes S and XL aplenty suggested that the Coronavirus lockdown has got a lot of regular-sized people out riding and therefore buying gear that hasn’t yet been replaced in inventory.

An hour’s afternoon nap a necessity after the morning’s exertions, after which I drove into Brevard for an early dinner with Les and Melanie, fueling up the truck on the way back to the campground so that I’m all set for tomorrow’s drive to Cherokee.


Friday, August 7, 2020 – Davidson River Campground, Brevard, NC, to Cherokee, NC

Quite a downpour overnight...

A particularly slow run this morning, perhaps not surprising after yesterday’s ride.

And my reward was a cold shower, as the propane water heater wouldn’t fire up. Hopefully the overnight deluge is to blame somehow and this will self-correct after today’s drive.

Drove the couple of miles to Sycamore Cycles, where the MTB clothing selection was rather better than The Hub, and treated myself to new MTB shorts and shirt. Also treated myself to their coffee, substantially better – as I discovered last time here - than the trendy little trailer coffee stand outside The Hub.

Back to the campground, hooked up the Airstream and headed out, winding up into the hills on Route 276 - not the quickest way to Cherokee, but definitely the most scenic.

Stopped briefly in Waynesville for a bite of lunch, then headed on into Cherokee, paying a visit to the Mingus Mill on my way to the KOA campground where I got set up in the campsite and a load of washing started before a thunderstorm and another deluge came through.

Propane water heater now firing up happily, so hopefully the issue was indeed related to the overnight rain.

Campground cable TV seemed to have switched to low definition after a brief outage during the storm, so watched a little news while getting dinner before switching to another episode of Breaking Bad on my iPad.


Saturday, August 8, 2020 – Cherokee, NC, to Linville Falls Campground, Blue Ridge Parkway, NC

Decided to forego a 5:30am alarm call and drive up to Clingman’s Dome for sunrise on the basis that I’ve seen many sunrises there already; been disappointed in "failed" sunrise events, too; that there would likely be crowd of vacationers there; and as I wanted to get out to ride the Fire Mountain Trails in Cherokee.

Slung my leg over the bike a little after 8:00am, with mist still hanging in the trees and only a couple of other bikers out that early. Rather greasy trails after yesterday afternoon’s rain, so took it fairly easy on the descents.

Much busier by the time I left, having finished my couple of circuits, with the parking lot 2/3 full of trucks and cars with bike racks.

Back at the campground, the propane water heater wouldn’t fire up - despite yesterday afternoon's successful trial - presumably due to yesterday afternoon’s rainstorm, so hosed off the bike, dumped and filled tanks, took a cold shower for the second day in a row and headed out at 11:00am, driving down to the nearby Smoky Mountains Visitor Center to park up and brew coffee, and to have their WiFi available if needed as I finessed the day’s plan.

In the event, decided the day's plan would be to just head on up the Blue Ridge Parkway to Crabtree Falls Campground or, if that was closed or full, on another 15 miles to Linville Falls Campground.

The drive and the views not terribly scenic with everything green, and high humidity levels making the distant panoramas rather hazy. Definitely more attractive once the trees have started turning in the fall.

I did make sure and pull over for a beauty shot of the truck and Airstream at the highest point on the parkway, however.

Crabtree Falls Campground was indeed closed, as I had suspected it might be, so I continued on to Linville Falls Campground and tucked into an open spot for a quiet night...

...no TV signal, no cell reception – but hard to beat at the bargain price of $10 with the 50% discount afforded by my Senior Lifetime Pass.


Sunday, August 9, 2020 – Linville Falls Campground to Rocky Knob Campground, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA

Cool overnight, with temperatures first thing only in the high 50s.

Left the campground early and drove down to Linville Falls, which I had been to a couple of years ago but this time I took a different walking route – difficult rather than moderate – to the Plunge Pool Overlook and then on down to the river itself and base of the falls.

Few people around early on but plenty of (mostly masked) visitors encountered on my walk back to the parking lot.

The drive on up the Blue Ridge Parkway unexpectedly interrupted by an unexplained road closure which forced me to turn back and meander away from the parkway in search of a detour route and in the absence of any information about the length of the road closure, I decided to make it a long detour and pass through a couple of larger towns for a gas fill-up before rejoining the parkway at Mabry Mill.

Surprisingly few visitors at Mabry Mill, possibly because the mill was closed due to Covid.

Distressingly large “one size only” ice-cream procured at the store beside the parking lot.

A short drive further on to Rocky Knob campground, chosen partly because of the opportunity for sunset and sunrise photos from The Saddle overlook nearby. Another bargain $10 stopover.

Patchy cell service enabled me to get the laptop on-line to make campground bookings for the three nights ahead, which will take me through to arrival in Westbrook.

A little light evening TV provided by some OTA channels coming through before heading up to The Saddle for sunset photos...

...though not quite as successful as last time here – another “do over” disappointment!


Monday, August 10, 2020 – Rocky Knob Campground, Blue Ridge Parkway, VA, to Broadway KOA, VA

Surprisingly warm overnight, considering that I was 3,500 feet up in the mountains, temperatures not dropping below the high 60s.

Up at 6:00am to head up to The Saddle for sunrise – again, photos not quite as good as when last here at dawn.

With a known road closure on the parkway ahead, I planned to drop down off the parkway and pass through Roanoke for a quick grocery top-up and a coffee before heading back up onto the parkway after the road closure.

Stopped briefly at the Smart View cabin for photos of the cabin and the view, and then at Peaks of Otter for lunch.

Another spell along the Blue Ridge Parkway, through a rain shower, then decided it was time to drop down from the mountains and onto I-81 to speed up the final part of the day’s drive to the KOA a few miles off the interstate.

Poor cable TV quality and channel choice at the campground left me with plenty of time for an initial weeding out of photos from yesterday evening and this morning before a relaxing penultimate episode of Breaking Bad on the iPad.


Tuesday, August 11, 2020 – Broadway KOA, VA, to Seven Points Campground, Hesston, PA

Alarm at 6:30am for an early breakfast to fuel my morning ride.

A little early news review and desk work before heading out at 7:45am for the 20-minute drive to Massanutten Western Slope MTB trails.

Decided to ride the Gold Loop, ridden when here previously, and which starts with a stream crossing – rather picturesque with the early morning sun filtering through the trees.

Sustained climbing from this point on, with periodic rock gardens and longer gnarly rocky trails, the middle section of the ride offering the only “flow”.

Despite not having run or ridden the past two mornings, I seemed to have no lungs and no legs, making the tricky trail sections even tougher – not least because I was riding defensively instead of attacking them. And the final downhill section - earned by all the climbing - was often rocky and rattly, so really not a fun end to a decidedly tough ride.

Back to the campground to get cleaned up, make coffee and head out, leaving at noon.

Took a diversion through Altoona on my way to Hesston in the belief that I had found a Kroger grocery store and gas station there for food and fuel top-ups, but the Kroger store finder had been misleading and instead I wound my way through all kinds of failed traffic lights and construction nonsense in downtown Altoona, finally filling up at $2.49 a gallon – versus $2 or less in all states since leaving Texas – and then being dragged down rough single-lane roads by my GPS route on the final 10 miles out to the campground at Raystown Lake.

All in all, not the best of days, going downhill from the high point of the early morning stream crossing at the start of my ride...


Wednesday, August 12, 2020 – Seven Points Campground, Hesston, PA, to East Stroudsburg KOA, PA

Alarm slightly later at 6:45am for pre-ride preparations, as there’s no impending deadline to move out of the campground.

Drove to the Baker’s Hollow trailhead parking lot to ride the “Allegrippis Easier Trails” loop, though with a couple of modifications – one detour down “Sleek Dog” trail abandoned due to excessive overgrowth onto the trail (plus the memory of riding before that it wasn’t such a great trail) so had to ride back up.

And then a second detour taken on the way back from the outermost point of the ride, with its view over Raystown Lake, on the 4-mile “black” Ray’s Revenge trail instead of the milder and much shorter “Berry Patch” trail.

Still not much in my legs – a stamina issue rather than strength issue, I think, though definitely not helped by the high temperature and humidity.

14 miles ridden in 2 hours, versus yesterday’s 9 miles in 1 hour 47 minutes, so a little better pace, and 1,674ft climbed versus 1,347ft yesterday.

Cleaned up back at the campground, hooked up the Airstream and got rolling just before noon.

Fairly uneventful drive, mostly on interstates, arriving at the KOA campground in East Stroudsburg at 4:00pm where I fiddled around excessively trying to get the Airstream level in the campsite and finally gave up and settled for less than perfection.

Piled all my sweaty MTB gear into the laundry bag, stripped the bed and set off to the campground laundry – which was locked, apparently ("maybe") due to Covid. So I had to drive 5 miles down the road to a commercial laundromat, the only redeeming aspect of this inconvenience being an ice-cream secured from a nearby CVS store.

Back at the campground gave the bike a thorough degreasing and wash down, though oiling the chain will be once it has properly dried out tomorrow morning.

All of which meant a late start to my evening, dinner accompanied by casual flicking through the cable TV channels.


Thursday, August 13, 2020 – East Stroudsburg KOA, PA, to Westbrook, CT

Up at 6:00am to finish off the pre-departure/pre-arrival in Westbrook chores – defrosting fridge, cleaning vent screen, cleaning shower, sweeping floor...

Tanks dumped and filled as the final act before heading out of the campground at 9:00am for the drive back to Westbrook via the longer route over the Tappan Zee Bridge (the new bridge now completed and renamed the Governor Mario M. Cuomo Bridge).

Traffic generally not too heavy, found a convenient Starbucks for coffee at 10:30am, I-95 kind to me (not so for people heading south, with 2 or 3 long tailbacks), but intermittent showers became heavy towards the end of the drive, arriving at 1:00pm during the final downpour at the Stop & Shop grocery store in Old Saybrook.

After waiting 10 minutes for the deluge to pass, topped up on groceries and then headed down Route 1 to Westbrook and the Pilots Point North Yard marina, stopping for a while in my office there to let another rain shower pass before setting up the Airstream in its “usual” spot down near Dock 10.

“Home” again, if this is where that is these days...

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